Coach recently debuts Stuart Vevers’ Winter 2025 collection, the next chapter of his vision of Coach’s American heritage seen through the lens of youth culture and the expressive spirit of today’s generation. Inspired by the joy and indulgence of the holiday season, the collection juxtaposes garments with a sense of occasion and playful accessories against more grounded, archetypal elements of American sportswear.
A celebration of the ritual of dressing up and going out, the collection features an assortment of crepe, chiffon, taffeta and tulle dresses and skirts, cut at a long length for dramatic effect and embellished with flocked stars, embroidered polka dots, sequin paillettes and appliqued butterflies. Peplum tops are constructed to resemble the top half of vintage 1940s dresses while jackets in suede and denim channel the romance of the American Southwest. Layered combinations of plaid blazers, shirts and ties inspired by early American sportswear bring a dynamic sense of pattern to tailored designs.
Knitwear features shaggy textured oversized cardigans and sweaters, as well as more fitted shapes with bowtie details. Intarsia jerseys and cardigans feature images of Disney’s Pluto, who also appears on sweatshirts and tees. Reflecting the silhouette of the Fall collection, many looks feature oversized, repurposed denim trousers, or pleated wool or leather maxi skirts worn by all genders. A faux fur cape in a tiger print, long coats in shearling and repurposed denim, a double-breasted Teddy coat with matching hat, and a gauzy sequined capelet made of silk chiffon are among the unique, unexpected pieces sprinkled throughout the collection.
“Before I understood what fashion was, I found joy in the idea of dressing up. It started with my mom dressing my brother and me in matching themed outfits to watch the amateur theater shows put on by my grandmother,” says Vevers. “Then in high school that same grandmother helped me craft clubbing outfits out of scraps of vinyl and charity shop treasures that promised a fun night out. Today, my children and I play with wands, crowns, swords and capes that open our world to endless self-expression and immediate optimism. I wanted to share the sense of possibility that fashion allows us to feel, manifest, and enact.”
In leathergoods, three archival bags by Coach’s first lead designer, Bonnie Cashin, have been reconsidered for today. These include the Double Entry Satchel, a 1969 design featuring two side-pockets with kisslock closures, the Doctor Satchel, a 1973 handbag with rolled leather handles and two turnlock pockets, and the Swagger Bag from 1967. These appear in natural heritage patina leather, as well as red, white and metallic gold finishes. The Kisslock Frame Bag makes a return, now in slightly smaller proportions, and the Twin Turnlock Bag featured in the Fall show also reappears, now with elongated straps to meet the needs of today’s dynamic generation.
Footwear sees the signature Coach bow pump now studded with crystals in red, silver and black, a new supple leather slipper and the Soho Sneaker in red, black and white suede and leather, as well as in tiger, zebra and leopard prints, all embellished with hand-sewn star leather appliques. Optical glasses and sunglasses retain their graphic rave-inspired shape from Fall, but now sparkle with crystal embellishment. Jewelry has a celestial inspiration, with an assortment of stars, suns, moons, and angels rendered in contrasting silver and brass tones with some featuring crystal details.
Tapping into the joyful spirit and imagination inherent in the act of getting dressed up, the collection is completed by a set of special accessories including adjustable leather crowns, wands and swords crafted from stacked leather, bunny ears in shearling and leather, and five plush bag charms of stuffed animals wearing seasonal accessories.
Photographed by Mark Kean, the images in the lookbook were captured in studio against simple pastel backdrops. They make for a series of portraits filled with the strong sense of personality and self-expression of the collection’s many characters.
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